Stretch jersey is one of the comfiest fabrics you can sew, and it's perfect for party season tops, bodycon dresses, leggings and dance costumes. It also has a bit of a reputation for being tricky. The good news? Once you know a few simple tricks, jersey is quick to sew, doesn't fray and is very forgiving to fit. Here's our friendly beginner's guide to getting great results first time.
Know Your Stretch: 2-Way vs 4-Way
Before you cut, give your fabric a gentle pull in both directions. A 2-way stretch (sometimes called 1-way) fabric stretches across the width only, while a 4-way stretch (all-way stretch) fabric stretches across the width and along the length. Most patterns for stretch fabrics tell you how much stretch you need, so check this before you buy.
- Leggings, leotards, swimwear and dancewear usually need 4-way stretch so they move with you.
- T-shirts, tops and simple dresses are often happy with 2-way stretch.
- Always place your pattern so the greatest stretch goes around the body.
If you're making dance or swim costumes, our All Way Stretch Spandex Lycra Fabric is 150cm wide and currently in stock in shades including Pink, Navy and Turquoise, at £7.35.
Use the Right Needle
This is the single biggest fix for skipped stitches. A standard sharp needle can pierce and snag knit fibres, so swap to a ballpoint (jersey) needle or a stretch needle. The rounded tip slips between the fibres instead of cutting through them. Stretch needles are especially handy for fabrics with a lot of spandex or Lycra in them. Pop a fresh one in before every new project, as a blunt needle makes things harder.
Choose a Stitch That Stretches
A regular straight stitch has no give, so it can snap when the fabric stretches. You don't need an overlocker to sew jersey. Try one of these on a normal sewing machine:
- Narrow zigzag: a small zigzag stitch is the easiest option and works on almost every machine.
- Stretch or lightning bolt stitch: many modern machines have a dedicated stretch stitch that looks almost straight but flexes with the fabric.
- Twin needle: great for neat, professional-looking hems on tops and sleeves.
Always test your stitch on a scrap first, and give it a good stretch to check it doesn't pop.
Cutting Jersey Without the Wobbles
Jersey can roll at the edges and shift around, so take your time here:
- Lay the fabric flat on a large table and don't let it hang off the edge, as the weight will stretch it out of shape.
- Use pattern weights and a rotary cutter if you have them, or very sharp scissors.
- Use ballpoint pins or sewing clips rather than lots of sharp pins.
A beginner-friendly fabric to practise on is our Bi-Stretch Dress & Craft Fabric, reduced to £3.99 (was £6.99). It's stable and easy to handle, and it's in stock in colours including Navy, Sky, Beige and Brown.
Don't Stretch as You Sew
It's tempting to pull the fabric through the machine, but this leads to wavy, rippled seams. Instead, let the feed dogs do the work and simply guide the fabric. A few more helpful tips:
- Lower your presser foot pressure slightly if your machine allows it.
- A walking foot helps feed both layers evenly and is brilliant on slinky knits.
- If the start of a seam gets chewed up, begin a little way in from the edge or hold the thread tails gently behind the foot.
- Press seams with a warm (not hot) iron and a pressing cloth. Lift and press, don't drag the iron.
Party Season Jersey Ideas
Ready to put your new skills to use? Jersey is ideal for quick Christmas party outfits, as many simple tops and tube skirts only need a few seams.
For full-on sparkle, our Moonlight Glitter Sparkling Jersey Party Dress Fabric is now £4.99 (was £7.99). It's in stock in lots of shades, including Black, Gold, Antique Gold, Purple, Lilac, Mauve and Dusky Pink. Use it for party dresses, sparkly tops or festive costumes.
For a sleek, body-skimming look, our Rib Jersey Stretch Dress Fabric in Skin/Nude is just £3.99 per metre (was £7.99). Rib jersey is lovely for bardot tops, bodycon dresses and leotards, and a neutral shade pairs with everything.
Finishing Touches
The nice thing about jersey is that it doesn't fray, so you can leave some edges raw for a relaxed look. For a neater finish, turn hems up once and sew with a twin needle or a zigzag. For necklines, a band of the same fabric cut slightly shorter than the opening and stretched gently as you sew gives a smooth, flat finish.
Start Your Stretch Project Today
With a ballpoint needle, a stretchy stitch and a little patience, sewing jersey is easier than you think. Browse our stretch and jersey fabrics at Bull Ring Fabrics, pick a colour you love and make something comfy and gorgeous for party season. Happy sewing!
