Fabric weights & widths
Fabric weights & widths,
finally explained.
What GSM means, how heavy is heavy, how wide our fabrics are, and how hard-wearing upholstery needs to be. With handy tables, because nobody likes maths mid-project.
Two numbers tell you a lot about a fabric before it arrives: how heavy it is and how wide it is. This guide explains both, plus the Martindale rub test for upholstery, so you can choose the right fabric for your project with confidence. You'll find the width (and often the weight) of every fabric on its product page.
Fabric weight (GSM) explained
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It's the weight of one square metre of the fabric. The higher the number, the heavier and usually thicker the fabric.
| Weight | Approx. GSM | Feels like | Great for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Very light | Under 100 gsm | Sheer and floaty | Voile, organza, tulle, chiffon: overlays, net curtains, veils |
| Light | 100–150 gsm | Soft, breathable | Cotton poplin, lawn, viscose: blouses, summer dresses, quilting, linings |
| Medium | 150–250 gsm | The all-rounder | Polycotton, satin, linen, jersey: dresses, shirts, cushions, bedding |
| Medium-heavy | 250–350 gsm | Substantial | Drill, corduroy, denim, fleece: trousers, jackets, bags, throws |
| Heavy | 350 gsm and over | Thick and sturdy | Upholstery, tapestry, plush velvet, canvas: sofas, chairs, heavy curtains |
🐂 Handy conversionSome fabrics are sold in ounces per square yard (oz). 1 oz/yd² is about 34 gsm, so a 10 oz denim is roughly 340 gsm.
Fabric widths explained
Fabric is sold by the metre along its length, but it comes in different widths (the distance from one selvedge to the other). The width changes how much length you need: a wider fabric fits more pattern pieces side by side, so you buy fewer metres.
| Width | In inches | Typical fabrics |
|---|---|---|
| 90 cm | 36" | Some craft cottons and specialist fabrics |
| 112–115 cm | 44–45" | Quilting and dressmaking cottons, Rose & Hubble poplin |
| 140–150 cm | 54–60" | Most dress fabrics, jersey, linings, curtain and upholstery fabrics |
| 280–300 cm | 110–120" | Wide sheeting, voiles and some curtain linings |
Converting a pattern to a different width
If your pattern was written for 115 cm fabric and yours is 150 cm wide, multiply the length by about 0.75. Going the other way (150 cm pattern, 115 cm fabric), multiply by about 1.3. Always round up. Our How much fabric do I need? guide has a full table of project quantities.
Centimetres and inches
- 1 inch = 2.54 cmSo 45" is about 114 cm, and 60" is about 152 cm.
- 1 metre = 39.4 inchesA metre is a little longer than a yard (36", or 91.4 cm).
- 1 yard = 0.91 metresIf a pattern asks for 3 yards, order 2.75 metres. Rounding up to 3 metres is safest.
- Usable widthWe list the usable width, between the selvedges, so what you see is what you can cut.
Martindale ratings for upholstery
The Martindale test rubs a fabric again and again until it shows wear. The number of rubs it survives tells you how hard-wearing it is. As a general guide:
| Martindale rubs | Rating | Use it for |
|---|---|---|
| Under 10,000 | Decorative | Cushions, curtains, headboards and anything that isn't sat on |
| 10,000–15,000 | Light domestic | Occasional chairs and furniture that's used now and then |
| 15,000–25,000 | General domestic | Everyday sofas and dining chairs in most homes |
| 25,000–30,000 | Heavy domestic | Family sofas, pets and busy living rooms |
| 30,000 and over | Commercial | Hotels, offices, cafés and very heavy use |
For help choosing, read Best upholstery fabric: how to choose for sofas, chairs & car seats, or browse upholstery fabric and car upholstery fabric.
Fire safety for upholstery
In the UK, upholstered furniture that's sold has to meet fire safety regulations, which usually means a fire-retardant fabric or a fire-retardant interliner underneath. If you're re-covering furniture to sell, or for a business, check the fabric's fire rating or ask us before you buy. For cushions, curtains and crafts at home, these rules don't normally apply.
Weights & widths FAQs
What GSM is good for a dress?
Most dresses use light to medium fabric, around 100–250 gsm. Floaty summer dresses suit the lighter end; structured or winter dresses suit the heavier end.
What GSM do I need for curtains?
Medium to heavy fabric, roughly 200 gsm and up, hangs well and blocks more light. Add a lining (or blackout lining) for extra weight, warmth and privacy.
Is a higher GSM always better?
No. It's about the right weight for the job. A heavy fabric would be stiff and hot as a blouse, and a light one would wear through quickly on a sofa.
How do I find a fabric's width?
It's listed on every product page, usually in the title and the details. If you can't see it, ask us and we'll measure it for you.
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